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Sorghum & Salt

November 2, 2017 Posted in Charleston, RestaurantsLeave a comment

A few weeks ago, we finally (finally!) found our way to Sorghum & Salt, which opened earlier this year on a quiet stretch of Coming Street. While its location is a bit under-the-radar, its food deserves to be anything but – the rave reviews we’ve heard were absolutely accurate. The restaurant’s menu focuses on locally-sourced, vegetable-heavy small plates, and while we’re not vegetarians, we might consider it if we could eat here every day!

We were fortunate to be joined by one of our favorite guest eaters (thanks for coming, Laura!), so we were able to try a (some might say embarrassingly large) number of the night’s offerings. Unlike some of the small plate-centric restaurants we’ve tried recently, the meal was expertly paced; we weren’t swamped with multiple dishes at once, nor did we wait very long between courses. We especially appreciated the thought our server put into the progression of our meal – lighter dishes arrived first before giving way to heartier fare, preventing any of the more delicate selections from being overshadowed.

BREAD SERVICE ($5): First up was the bread, because we are fundamentally incapable of saying no to bread. The brown sugar bread was perfectly baked and surprisingly large, though we wished the flavor of the short rib butter (infused with meat from nearby Keegan-Filion farm) was stronger.

SOY CURED STEELHEAD SALMON – CUCUMBER – AVOCADO – SZECHUAN OIL – BABY SORREL ($14): Any minor disappointment we had over the butter was erased as soon as we tasted the salmon. Imagine the freshest, fanciest bite of salmon sashimi you’ve ever had and you are mentally tasting this dish. The soy cure flavor dominated but did not overwhelm, and the other ingredients worked in perfect harmony. This is an absolute must order if you see it on the menu – next time, we’ll probably order two.

GREEN TEA NOODLES – 6-MINUTE EGG – CHARRED BROCCOLI – HERB PUREE ($13): This was a very interesting dish, and one we ordered without being sure we were going to like it. The cold, soba-esque noodles infused with green tea were good, unless you accompanied them with a bite of the jammy, sous vide egg – then they were fantastic.

SMOKED GROWFOOD EGGPLANT – HOUSE MADE LAMB BACON – APRICOT MOSTARDA – WHIPPED FETA ($14): We smelled this dish before we saw it, and we knew we were going to love it. We passed the plate around the table multiple times just so that we could smell the incredible lamb bacon. The apricot mostarda’s sweet acidity cut the richness of the eggplant and bacon to make this dish much more than the sum of its parts. This wasn’t a dish we all agreed on up front, but after it was gone we agreed it was the standout of the evening.

CRISPY POTATOES – CANDIED SALMON – HOUSE MADE KEWPIE – PICKLED COLLARDS ($13): We were very excited about the potatoes with house made Kewpie mayonnaise, but didn’t know what to expect with the salmon. While we all enjoyed the perfectly roasted potatoes, we found that the salmon brought an oddly sweet taste to the dish. This is one we’d pass on in the future.

HOUSE MADE SAUSAGE – SMASHED PEAR – POPPED SORGHUM – FENNEL CREAM ($14): Sausage and pear was an unexpected duo, but it ended up being an all-around hit. This dish was more straightforward than most of what we ordered, but it’s hard to say anything bad about a great, homemade sausage that has been cooked to crispy perfection. And the addition of popcorn certainly didn’t hurt!

SMOKED CARROT RIGATONI – SALSA VERDE – SPICED PUMPKIN SEED – RICOTTA SALATA ($16): It’s a testament to Sorghum & Salt’s skill and ingenuity with vegetables that this meatless dish ended up being the heartiest of the evening. This arrived at the end of a large meal and the three of us were slowing down a bit, but we managed to clean the plate. The crunchy pumpkin seeds provided a nice textural counterpoint to the creamy carrots and pasta. As with several of the evening’s courses, we would never have thought to combine these ingredients, but this was definitely a winner.

BEET CREMEUX – ESPRESSO – ELDERFLOWER – COCOA NIB – PISTACHIO ($12) – Oh these beets. Hands down the best course of one of the best meals we have had in quite a while. We weren’t sure that the eggplant / lamb bacon dish could be topped, but this dessert was unbelievable. As we learned from the kitchen, the beets were roasted with a ton of butter, and then infused into form that was not quite cake, not quite panna cotta, not quite pudding, not quite fudge – but exactly perfect. This was definitely a dessert that makes you think, as it’s rather different from most restaurants’ standard offerings. But you will be richly rewarded if this is how you choose to end your time at Sorghum & Salt.

Our only regret with Sorghum & Salt is that it took us so long to try it! We will definitely be back sooner rather than later – this is an amazing restaurant doing incredible things with local ingredients, and we can’t wait to see how its menu changes with the seasons.

Info:

Sorghum & Salt website
186 Coming Street, Charleston, SC
Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday; closed Mondays

Workshop

October 10, 2017October 10, 2017 Posted in Charleston, Restaurants1 Comment

Over the last few months, we’ve made several trips to Workshop, Charleston’s first “fancy” food court. Located on way, way, waaaaaaaay upper King Street, Workshop features a rotating set of kitchens – some there for the long haul (like Bad Wolf Coffee and Juan Luis) and others for a few short weeks or months (Beech Test Kitchen, we miss you!). From crowd- (and kid-) pleasers like Slice Co’s New York-style pizza to more exotic fare like Sambar’s Indian street food, Workshop’s varied restaurants offer something for every palate. With so many diverse dining options – not to mention ample free parking (a rarity in Charleston!) and a ton of indoor and outdoor seating – Workshop is a great gathering place for a group. So when we were asked to come up with a fun, casual spot to grab a bite to eat after a group tour last weekend, our recommendation was easy: Workshop and its six restaurants in one!

Last Sunday, we joined about 25 fellow William & Mary alumni and guests (Tribe Pride!) for a really interesting and informative tour of the H.L. Hunley submarine in nearby North Charleston (locals, this is worth your time if you haven’t been!) before making the short drive over to Workshop. While we were a bit disappointed to discover that the very popular Juan Luis is closed on Sundays and that the Asian-inspired Slider Gold was only offering a limited menu that day, everyone quickly found food to their liking at Workshop’s other stalls. Sambar and the Vietnamese-focused Pink Bellies were the big hits of the evening.

Sambar is a very welcome addition to Charleston’s limited Indian food scene, especially since its offerings are a bit more adventurous than the standard chicken tikka masala. On our visit, several W&Mers enjoyed the thali – a variety of delicious dishes served on a single plate. Perfect for sharing (though not quite large enough to constitute a full meal for two), Sambar’s thali plate comes with basmati rice, vegetables, sambar, green and mango chutneys, raita, dosa and a choice of pork vindaloo, coconut cashew curry or chicken curry. It’s a great introduction to Sambar’s cuisine, as is the “dosa and dips” (Indian flatbread served with a variety of chutneys and sauces). The lamb meatballs, served with curried lentil hummus, eggplant and cherry tomato masala, gingered turnips and naan, were another favorite, and we’ll definitely be ordering these again on our next visit.

Pink Bellies offers Asian-inspired noodle and rice bowls topped with a variety of meats, onto which you can (and should!) add a delicious, 63-degree sous vide egg. The chicken thigh rice bowl and pulled pork-laden garlic noodle bowl are particular favorites – both offer heaping portions of perfectly-cooked rice or noodles topped with pickled vegetables and a mound of the meat of choice. It’s tough to go wrong with anything on offer.

Garlic noodles

Chicken thigh bowl

While several of the Workshop stalls serve alcohol, the selection is limited (though thoughtfully selected to pair well with their food). Luckily, Workshop is right next door to, and shares its outdoor space with, the newly-opened Edmund’s Oast Brewing Company. Our crew had no trouble ordering beer and wine at the brewery and bringing it back to enjoy at Workshop, making both spots all the more appealing. We can envision many more group gatherings in this great new space … we’ll definitely be back soon to work(shop) our way through its many offerings!

Info:

Workshop website
1503 King Street, Charleston, SC
Open daily for lunch & dinner (though individual kitchens’ hours may vary)

The Cook’s Atelier

September 19, 2017 Posted in TravelLeave a comment

Hi there – sorry it’s been a minute! Life (not to mention a jerk named Irma) has 86’ed a lot of our dining plans over the last several weeks. So while we’re working on new content (i.e., stuffing our faces around town), we thought we’d tell you about one of our favorite foodie experiences to date: the day-long market tour, cooking class and lunch we enjoyed last fall at The Cook’s Atelier in beautiful Beaune, France.

Founded by an American ex-pat mother-daughter duo, Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini, The Cook’s Atelier is a small cooking school and culinary/wine boutique in the heart of Beaune. About a decade ago, Marjorie and Kendall did what so many foodies and Francophiles (us included!) have dreamed but not dared do – moved to the French countryside to pursue their passion for French food and wine (and help others enjoy it as well!). Kendall’s French husband has since joined the team and manages the wine shop and culinary boutique (and can make you a killer espresso!), making The Cook’s Atelier a true family affair.

We’ve been following The Cook’s Atelier’s progress for several years (we studied abroad in the south of France with Kendall in college), so we registered for a course as soon as we decided to make Burgundy the centerpiece of our trip to France last September. While the Atelier also offers dinners and multi-day courses, its flagship experience – and the one that worked best with our itinerary – is its “Day in Burgundy” market tour, cooking class and lunch. Offered on Wednesdays and Saturdays (market days in Beaune), the Day in Burgundy begins with a tour of Beaune’s incomparable open-air farmer’s market, continues with a hands-on cooking class in the Atelier’s copper-filled kitchen, and ends with a “long French lunch” in a beautifully-appointed dining room. Capped at ten guests, the day offers an intimate, informative and indulgent insight into Burgundy’s rich culinary culture.

FullSizeRender — Ready for the long French lunch

Shortly before 10am on a sunny Wednesday morning, we met Marjorie, Kendall and the day’s other guests in front of Fromagerie Hess, Beaune’s renowned cheese shop. Inside, we sampled a variety of local cheeses – including the infamous Epoisses, a soft, super-smelly cow’s-milk cheese – before wandering our way down the street to the farmer’s market. Despite its prominence as the center of the Burgundian wine world, Beaune is much more of a town than a city, and that community feeling was very evident at the market – everyone seemed to know one another. Marjorie and Kendall introduced us to some their favorite purveyors and artisans, several of whom generously shared samples with us. We’re still thinking of the incredible strawberries and expertly-cured meats a year later! Along the way, Marjorie and Kendall also purchased many of the ingredients that we’d use to prepare our lunch back at the Atelier.

Upon arriving in the Atelier’s kitchen, we donned aprons and got down to business. Marjorie and Kendall explained each recipe and offered helpful cooking tips as we all lent a hand in preparing each dish; from chopping vegetables to preparing batter to piping madeleines, each guest took part in preparing the day’s meal. It was exciting to see lunch begin to take shape from the ingredients we had acquired less than an hour earlier at the farmer’s market.

The day’s bounty, plus a row of vintage Sabatier knives

Once the gougères were baking and the beef was roasting, we headed upstairs to the dining room to enjoy the fruits of our (very mild) labor. Marjorie and Kendall handled the heavier lifting in finishing each course as we kicked off our meal a glass of bubbly. One by one the courses – all Burgundian classics – materialized on the beautiful zinc-topped dining table: gougères made with local Gruyère cheese, fresh tomato salad with basil, chèvre (goat cheese) and a balsamic reduction, an incredible Charolais beef roast, a large spread of cheeses from Hess, and an olive oil cake with wild strawberries and jam. The wine also flowed freely all afternoon; Kendall, who studied viticulture in Burgundy after college, perfectly paired each course with a bottle available in the shop downstairs.

Though we were all started out as strangers, the shared love of food (plus, let’s be honest, the copious amounts of wine) made fast friends of all the guests gathered around the table. Since all good things sadly must end, we eventually said our goodbyes and headed back out into Beaune. We left happy, inspired, a little drunk and a lot full, though not so much so that we couldn’t stop back at Fromagerie Hess for a selection of cheeses and a bottle of wine to enjoy as a light dinner – you only live once, after all.

If you find yourself in Beaune, we wholeheartedly recommend The Cook’s Atelier for a sophisticated yet extremely accessible and convivial foodie experience – or feel free to experience it vicariously through the Atelier’s beautiful online shop and Instagram photos as well as their forthcoming cookbook:

The Cook’s Atelier
43 rue de Lorraine, Beaune, France
Website
Instagram: @thecooksatelier
Cookbook pre-order (coming April 2018)

Cinco Tex-Mex

August 23, 2017 Posted in Charleston, Restaurants1 Comment

Thanks to our son’s busy schedule (seriously, he’s only three but already way cooler than us), we usually find ourselves in Mount Pleasant for dinner one night a week. We typically rotate among a handful of restaurants (Kairos, Papa Zuzu’s and Five Loaves are our standbys), but this week we felt like trying someplace new. Scrolling through Yelp, we came across a well-rated place neither of us had ever heard of: Cinco Tex-Mex. Since we’re always down for tacos and Cinco was less than half a mile away, the decision was a no-brainer.

As we learned from our server, Cinco opened early this summer with purposely-little fanfare. Run by a couple from San Antonio, the restaurant focuses on Tex-Mex classics – chip-and-dip appetizers, a handful of soups, salads and sides, and fajita, carnita, enchilada, quesadilla and taco entrées – all made to order. Cinco’s flour tortillas, which form the backbone of most of its dishes, are made from scratch and pressed in a small, glassed-in prep area in the dining room (a bit of a show with dinner!), allowing the restaurant to demonstrate its attention to detail and dedication to authenticity.

The drink menu tends toward Mexican beer and tequila-based cocktails, many of which are discounted during Cinco’s 5-7pm weeknight happy hour. We happened to be there on “Margarita Monday” and enjoyed a delicious, not-too-sweet peach marg for a mere $6 – reason enough to return!

The food also helped secure Cinco a spot in our Mount Pleasant restaurant rotation. To start, we ordered the totopos con salsa – a heaping basket of house-made chips with red, green, and pineapple habanero salsas ($5). The red and green were good, but the pineapple habanero was great; the chile’s kick was accompanied by a burst of sweetness from the pineapple, which proved to be the perfect counterpoint to the chips. And the chips – ohhh, the chips. Warm, salty and fried to golden perfection, they were simply outstanding. Our server offered to refill our basket multiple times; we reluctantly declined lest we not have any room for our main courses, but it’s doubtful we’ll be so restrained next time!

For our entrées, we ordered several tacos and the steak fajitas. The seven taco options are offered à la carte ($3-4.50 each), and we went with the asadero con rajas (cheese and pepper), beef fajita, and camarones (shrimp) – plus a chicken fajita taco for our son, who was none too pleased that he couldn’t have a chips-only dinner. The asadero and fajita tacos were a little underwhelming; the strong flavor of the asadero cheese overwhelmed the flavor of the sparse poblanos, and the fajita-based offerings were perfectly fine but nothing special. The camarones taco, however, was excellent, with nicely-fried shrimp, crispy corn salsa and a pleasantly spicy chipotle crema. We’d be curious to try the other taco offerings (beef barbacoa, chicken tinga and chorizo), but we’ll probably favor the more substantial entrées in subsequent meals at Cinco.

L-R: asadero con rajas, camarones, beef fajita

Speaking of the larger entrées, the fajitas ($16-18) ranked right up there with the best Tex-Mex Tyler has eaten in Texas. The beef fajitas came to the table in the classic style: a sizzling skillet of beef, peppers and onions, a separate plate of black beans and elotes (Mexican street corn), and a foil pouch of the awesome house-made tortillas. The fajita fillings were all grilled simply but perfectly, and when layered into a tortilla and slathered with crema and pico de gallo, they helped showcase Cinco’s strength and potential. The black beans and street corn were also excellent, though both played second fiddle to the deliciously simple fajitas.

Cinco does not offer desserts yet (though we hear some are in the works), but we were too full for more food anyway! We’re glad to have stumbled across this under-the-radar spot – it’s clearly still working out some kinks and refining its recipes, but we’re excited to see how it evolves and improves on an already-winning formula. Keep those chips coming, Cinco, and we’ll keep coming back!

Info:

Cinco Tex-Mex website
1035 Johnnie Dodds Boulevard #B7, Mount Pleasant, SC
Hours: 5-10pm Monday-Saturday; closed Sundays